McClellanville, South Carolina

On the way to Georgetown, we slide back in time to McClellanville, SC, a small fishing community dating from the 1800's. McClellanville had a population of 459 at the 2000 census. It is situated on land surrounded by the Francis Marion National Forest and has traditionally derived its livelihood from the sea and coastal marshes by shrimping, fishing, and oystering.

McClellanville village began in the late 1860s when local plantation owners A.J. McClellan and R.T. Morrison sold lots in the vicinity of Jeremy Creek to planters of the Santee Delta, who sought relief from summer fevers. The first store opened soon after the Civil War, and the village became the social and economic center for a wide area that produced timber, rice, cotton, naval stores, and seafood.

Incorporated in 1926, McClellanville township became, and remains, best known for its shrimping fleet and seafood industries.

In 1989 the town was devastated by the full brunt of Hurricane Hugo, which destroyed homes, downed century old oaks, deposited shrimp boats in front yards, and otherwise altered much of the picturesque character of this historic fishing village.

The stronger north side of the eye wall passed directly over the village while a Category 4 hurricane. Residents taking refuge in the local high school, a designated storm shelter, were surprised by a storm surge which threatened to drown the refugees. Helping one another in complete darkness, they managed to crawl into a space above the false ceilings of the building and, fortunately, none were lost.

As we walked along the quiet streets on Easter Sunday, we met the Grahams, descendants of McClellanville's earliest residents, and they shared their stories of the small town values and proud heritage of hard working water men and their families.

It was a perfect day in a perfect place, as we tried to understand the pull on a small town that time has forgotten. The nearest grocery store is 40 minutes away.

Charleston

Good Morning Charleston! It's sunshine and 55 degrees as we get ready to explore the city.

Historic Downtown Charleston is full of things to do and see, strolling through the antebellum streets, view stunning architecture, and enjoy southern cuisine.

We started out taking the marina's free shuttle to the Charleston Farmer's Market, ranked fifth best in the country by Travel + Leisure magazine.

Located at Marion Square, we stroll through a large open park, where every Saturday they have tents set up along the edge.

There is an abundance of fresh local produce, plants, herbs and flowers. We also check out the arts and crafts from the best selection of local artists.

Locals and tourists can enjoy the farmer's market and get breakfast, lunch and dinner while listening to live entertainment. Today it was Bluegrass.

Simple pleasures were enjoyed by all.

Located on Market street, we walk to the Old City Market, which was built in 1841 to sell produce and meats. It features shops, restaurants, and a flea market where ladies weave and sell their handmade sweet grass baskets.

We finish our walking tour in the King Street Fashion District. This is a large area of high-end designer stores including Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Bob hustles me through quickly.

We say goodbye to Charleston and tomorrow we continue north towards Georgetown.

During the holidays, we would like to wish all of our friends and family, a happy Passover and a happy Easter. We especially love and miss all of you at this special time of the year.   

Cruising South Carolina

Leaving the Isle of Hope, we are sad that we will not be coming back here, because this was the friendliest, prettiest place that we have been so far.

Traveling north, we cross the Savanna River into South Carolina. Forests and marshland seem untouched as we pay close attention to currents and depths, as well as markers and ranges.

Crab traps are common in these sheltered waters, as seafood is big business in these parts. These guys were checking their traps and feeding the pelicans.

The tidal range here is about 8 or 9 feet, so most homes have enormously long wooden piers with a floating dock at the end in order to reach or store their boats.

Sometimes these long piers take up half of the ICW and many times we can't see the houses that the piers belong to.

And sometimes we can see large southern mansions in all their grandeur.

We pass many restored boats in these protected rivers and old historic towns.

We figure that this cemetery has the best view in town.

As the day gets gray and the winds pick up, we pass Hilton Head Island, a bustling but beautiful year-round resort. Named after the 17th-century explorer, William Hilton, this is probably the best-known South Carolina sea island.

As the largest barrier island on the Atlantic Coast, one has a choice of excellent marina resorts. We pass and head across Calibogue Sound (a rough ride) and on into Beaufort.

Our evening in Beaufort was spent with Kelly (Bob's nephew's wife), as she introduced me to "shrimp and grits" in a local restaurant. It was very good. Bob had steak. Beaufort exudes Southern hospitality and charm. Besides it's many historic and architectural treasures, Beaufort has a modern-day military presence, hosting the Beaufort Naval Hospital and the Marine Corps Air Station.

A morning departure from Beaufort has a sense of foreboding with a cold front heading east across the country. Three trawlers and us headed out towards Charleston (a 9 hour trip).

As the day progressed, there were severe storm warnings posted with possible hail and 70 kt. winds.

We beat the weather into Charleston City Marina and tie up before the dark clouds roll in.

We wake up to 53 degrees.

Captain Bob says Burrrrrr.

Savannah

Savannah sits serenely on a bluff 40 feet above the banks of the Savannah River, where General James Oglethorpe and 120 passengers landed in 1733.

Oglethorpe laid out the city in a series of 24 squares, of which remain as lovely parks surrounded by a mix of architectural styles, including Federal, Georgian, Victorian and Italianate.

At the time of the original charter, religious freedom was guaranteed, but lawyers, rum, and slavery were forbidden.

Walking, driving, and carriage tours highlight the historic homes built around Savannah's squares.

The site of Georgia's first bank, now the Olde Pink House Restaurant, built in 1789, and the oldest building in Georgia.

The Waving Girl, an icon for Savannah, is the statue of Florence Martus waving a handkerchief at passing ships on the Savannah River in hopes that her departed sailor-lover would be on one of them.

In response to questions asking why I am not in the pictures, here at the Memorial of World War II Veterans, I stand in tribute to Bob's picture taking abilities.

Isle of Hope, Georgia

Leaving Brunswick, we follow the ICW north, past St. Simons Island and up the Mackay River.

Sidney Lanier Bridge, Brunswick, Georgia.

We traveled through Buttermilk Sound and into the Little Mud River, weaving erratically back and forth around curves and bends. We spent the night at anchor on the fringes of a salt marsh extending back into the distant woods.



 

This was an unexpected encounter, as the Captain of the Miss Martha told us that he was low in the water with ten thousand pounds of "jelly bellies". We concluded that it must mean shrimp. 

 

 

Isle of Hope, Georgia, is a charming village of winding roads and old houses.

 

The Isle of Hope Marina sits among the tall pines and oaks located on the shores of the Skidaway River.

Southern Hospitality comes with dockside amenities which include complimentary loaner cars which we took advantage of to go out to dinner at a wonderful local seafood restaurant and bar.

The town, it's name of unknown origin, stands on a bend high above the river and is listed on the National Register of Historis Places.

Located in one of the most beautiful  settings on the entire ICW, we tied up and enjoyed a bike ride  among the antebellum homes.