The Great Loop On Karma: Cruising South Carolina

Leaving the Isle of Hope, we are sad that we will not be coming back here, because this was the friendliest, prettiest place that we have been so far.

Traveling north, we cross the Savanna River into South Carolina. Forests and marshland seem untouched as we pay close attention to currents and depths, as well as markers and ranges.

Crab traps are common in these sheltered waters, as seafood is big business in these parts. These guys were checking their traps and feeding the pelicans.

The tidal range here is about 8 or 9 feet, so most homes have enormously long wooden piers with a floating dock at the end in order to reach or store their boats.

Sometimes these long piers take up half of the ICW and many times we can't see the houses that the piers belong to.

And sometimes we can see large southern mansions in all their grandeur.

We pass many restored boats in these protected rivers and old historic towns.

We figure that this cemetery has the best view in town.

As the day gets gray and the winds pick up, we pass Hilton Head Island, a bustling but beautiful year-round resort. Named after the 17th-century explorer, William Hilton, this is probably the best-known South Carolina sea island.

As the largest barrier island on the Atlantic Coast, one has a choice of excellent marina resorts. We pass and head across Calibogue Sound (a rough ride) and on into Beaufort.

Our evening in Beaufort was spent with Kelly (Bob's nephew's wife), as she introduced me to "shrimp and grits" in a local restaurant. It was very good. Bob had steak. Beaufort exudes Southern hospitality and charm. Besides it's many historic and architectural treasures, Beaufort has a modern-day military presence, hosting the Beaufort Naval Hospital and the Marine Corps Air Station.

A morning departure from Beaufort has a sense of foreboding with a cold front heading east across the country. Three trawlers and us headed out towards Charleston (a 9 hour trip).